Thursday, June 16, 2011

Fit for Real People

I was on vacation for an extended weekend (sooo nice, and so necessary!), but while I was gone, I got my copy of Fit for Real People in the mail. Not kidding, I read the first 70 pages or so in two nights. I'm so excited about it. I've also flipped to the chapter on bust fitting, and I've figured out how to do an adjustment to fix the blue dress. It's a bit late for it, but I might pull the dress apart and replace the bust pieces anyway. I've got more than enough sheet left for it. I've actually probably got enough sheet left to make a whole other dress!

Monday, June 6, 2011

Ruminations About Fitting, and a New Vintage Pattern!

I am so excited! I purchased my first vintage pattern last week, from karenleanneking on Etsy. It's Simplicity 3562, a 1950s dress and bolero. You have to love those little bows on the shoulders. I'm not usually one for boleros, but I might just have to stitch this one up, it's so adorable.

I've been almost done with the New Look dress all weekend, but I've been putting off the zipper and the hem because I'm a little disappointed with myself. I rushed through the whole thing, and even though I made a muslin, I didn't take advantage of the fitting opportunity it provided. When I tried on the almost-finished dress, I realized that my teeny-tiny changes to the bust didn't really do much. It still gapes in the chest and pulls around my breasts. How does one do an FBA for this dress? Add more width and widen the area that's gathered, so there's more room in the bust but it still comes in at the ribs?

Hmmm... Must get a good book on fitting before sewing up Simplicity 3562. I've read a lot of blogs that recommend Fit for Real People. That may have to be my next purchase.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Marking Fabric Blemishes and Adding In-Seam Pockets

While I was pressing the blue flowered fabric (formerly a sheet), I found a bunch of small stains and cuts in the fabric, so I tacked them with bright red thread so I wouldn't cut out pieces that had problems.

There's lining in the crossover bodice pieces of the dress and interfacing in the back, and I've decided to self-line and self-interface. Because of the scattered placement of the stains and cuts, I couldn't just fold the fabric in half and cut two pieces at once, so cutting took me a little longer than it should have.

Actually, the whole dress is going to take me a little longer. With the French seams, every seam will take twice as long, and I decided to add in-seam pockets too. I know, it's ambitious for my second dress, but I don't see why I can't. Just a little extra time. I learned how to sew in-seam pockets from a Burda tutorial last year, and I've sewn them into two skirts (one in rare circulation and one a sad UFO...more on that another time).

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Muslin and French Seams

Last night, I finished the muslin and made a few minor adjustments. I added a quarter inch to the inside of each of the bodice pieces for modesty and decided to make the seam allowance 3/8" instead of 5/8" on the inside of those pieces. I also pulled the inside corners down a quarter inch to prevent gaping in the chest. I experimented with sewing a French seam on one of the skirt seams, and it turned out beautifully.

I'm so excited about these! I found a tutorial on Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing, which made French seams seem so easy (hehe...seams seem). I want to use French seams on all of my clothes now; they're so pretty and clean.